A relaxed resident of Elkhorn Slough studies passersby (Click on photos to enlarge) |
This
might be my No. 1 choice for a paddling trip….
…during
the “Other Season,” and it’s easy to make that case with generally mild winter weather,
beautiful scenery and some of the best wildlife viewing anywhere in California. But on my
most recent trip to Monterey County, I noticed that the entertainment worked
both ways – while kayakers were watching sea otters and harbor seals in Elkhorn
Slough, those critters were gawking at us too.
Which
sort of complicates things, marine mammal protection-wise. Sea otters are
classified as a threatened species and protected by law. Simply put, humans
should always keep their distance, especially during the pupping season in late
winter and early spring. (All photos with this blog post were taken with a telephoto
lens.)
This paddler has an experienced sea dog |
But
Elkhorn Slough – a shallow, oversized saltwater pool – may provide California's most
intimate otter environment that is equally accessible to humans.
And over time, it seems to me, otters and paddlers have largely adapted to each
other’s presence.
On
a recent mild weekend, colorful kayaks of every size and kind dotted the slough, along with a
couple of canoes and a paddleboard or two.
A white-haired paddler and her color-coordinated canine must be frequent visitors, as the dog knew just how to sit still
in the cockpit. (With no barking at the wildlife, good dog!)
And a trio of canoeists might not have realized it, but they were among the most interesting critters on the water that day.
And a trio of canoeists might not have realized it, but they were among the most interesting critters on the water that day.
It was apparent by the look on many kayaker faces that they had never been out on
the slough before, or perhaps even taken up a paddle. Pure joy. One woman sported a
beautiful smile and a stylish new splash jacket from the nearby kayak shop. She declared kayaking may become her favorite outdoor activity.
And some otters seemed to enjoy an audience. While most moms and pups stayed in quiet
areas and away from boat traffic, the adolescents popped up everywhere, often
very close to boats and less than shy. Indeed, I 've seen a couple of
incidents in the past where otters tried to climb onto kayaks. They may seem
cuddly and cute, but up close, you’re more likely to notice their teeth and claws.
Wild animals need to remain just that.
Still,
some interaction between paddlers and otters is inevitable, given the characteristics
of Elkhorn Slough. It’s an easy, 30-minute drive north on Highway 1 from the tourist areas in
Monterey. And impossible to miss, given the landmark steam stacks next door at Moss Landing, a bayside community with its own quirky
charm.
It’s
also easy to rent a kayak right at the beach launch from Monterey Bay Kayaks, a
longtime vendor with a friendly, competent crew. And there’s amply public parking, though it’s
not free.
The
only downsides involve changeable paddling conditions, so keep time and tide on
your side. (See interactive web site.) Assuming decent weather, it’s always best to launch at or near high
tide in the morning, with light winds, and return by 1 p.m. or so, as the tide
begins to ebb. Later in the day, winds off the ocean almost always pick up and
a nasty chop may cover the slough with no cover from wind. Fine conditions for otters and
seals, not so much for paddlers.
Changeable conditions: Less than 24 hour after the otter tour, bay winds hit 40mph (hear Asilomar) |