|Catching that first wave was just as I'd always imagined....|
The kayak instructor’s question was an easy one for me…
|But first came "Maytag zone" (two photos courtesy Kelly Marie Henry)|
Why did you want to take an introductory kayak surfing class? My instant reply: “In the early ‘60s, when I was a kid living 800 miles from the ocean and I heard The Beach Boys on the radio….” Everyone laughed, but true. “Surfin’ USA” in 1963: ”If everybody had an ocean…” Ha! A kid in in the Appalachian Mountains could only listen to the radio and dream.
But 50-some years later, my dream finally came true with a recent “Introduction to Kayak Surfing” class at Dillon Beach, near the mouth of Tomales Bay. My first run, from about 50 yards out, was exactly the way I had always imagined. A large swell picked me up and fired me like a bullet to the beach without a wobble or a wipeout – wahoo!