Spring fever? Paddling offers blooms, butterflies

Scotch broom and waterfall across the channel from Rattlesnake Bar

“It's spring fever. That is what the name of it is….” 

…wrote Mark Twain.  “And when you've got it, you want - oh, you don't quite know what it is you do want, but it just fairly makes your heart ache, you want it so!”

Lupine on the shoreline

Well, Mr. Clemens, a kayak tour of spring wildflowers will ease that fever quite nicely, as a group from the Sacramento Sea Kayakers club discovered while paddling toward the North Fork of the American River last weekend.

For me, the high point came at lunch  - my fave time of any paddle day - about midway into an eight-mile round trip. 

Landing below a sandy bank, our group suddenly faced a quiet riot of pipevine butterflies erupting from clumps of vetch on the hillside. Black wings fluttered wildly amid deep purple blooms - a “wow” spring visual, for sure.

Pipevine mob scene in the purple vetch 

We launched from Folsom Lake’s Rattlesnake Bar. Spring runoff has raised the water level, prompting park rangers to open the launch gates and allow vehicle access down a steep ramp to a floating dock.

Heading upstream, we passed small waterfalls framed by granite and greenery. Yellow splashes of scotch broom decorated some hillsides, with carpets of lupine elsewhere. And ubiquitous California poppies shared the slopes with stone wall jigsaw patterns that have defied gravity for more than 100 years.

Reservoirs and kayaker fortunes finally rise again

BEFORE: Rolling down the hill to launch at Rattlesnake Bar last October.

AFTER: Fishing boat at about the same spot, March 18

Our long-term drought may not be over yet.... 

But these days, the view from a kayak looks pretty good around Northern California. Consider this before-and-after comparison at Folsom Lake Recreation Area's Rattlesnake Bar. 

It was just last October 30 that NorCal Yak pal Dale and I drove to the launch

Slow, spectacular kayaking in Yosemite Valley

Passing under the Swinging Bridge with Yosemite Falls as a backdrop

Merced River now open to kayakers, so make plans for next spring... 

Rounding a bend in the Merced River, my kayak nosed gently toward shore as Yosemite Valley revealed all its granite grandeur. Upstream, Half Dome dominated the distant skyline. Straight ahead and across the river, Yosemite Falls shot from craggy heights. And downstream, El Capitan loomed menacingly under racing clouds. To call it breathtaking would be an understatement.

Not another soul in sight. Yet barely more than three miles away, Curry Village buzzed with activity. Only the sound of the river and birds twittering in the trees broke the silence here.

And then the weight of history hit me like a river rock - naturalist John Muir, his camping partner Theodore Roosevelt, and the incomparable photographer Ansel Adams had all stood at or near this spot. And here I was, the first kayaker on this stretch of the Merced River since Yosemite National Park opened it to paddlers just a few days earlier. 

'Downsized' Tahoe still an alpine gem for kayakers

Update 5/29/15: While the white Sierra peaks are now down to snow-cone levels, water clarity is wonderful. More new photos online at  http://1drv.ms/1SHDdo6

A view of the dwindling Sierra snowpack on May 2, but a beautiful scene nonetheless. 

A bit less water, but it's clearer than ever

It’s still the most spectacular alpine lake a kayaker could ever hope to paddle. So just think of Lake Tahoe as downsizing a little bit during California’s record dry spell.  

Earlier this month, three of us headed up the hill to enjoy Tahoe views while some snow still dusted the peaks. We weren’t disappointed, although the lake had dropped perhaps six or eight feet from its usual spring level.

On the plus side, Tahoe beaches are longer and wider than ever. On the minus side, that may mean some walking to haul kayaks down to the waterline. On the plus side again, water clarity is better than it’s been in years, thanks to less runoff from the hillsides.

Get ready kayakers, bouquets are on the way

4/12 update: With few spring showers, wildflower season appears to be wilting quickly at lower elevations in Northern California. A paddle today from Rattlesnake Bar on the North Fork of the American today barely caught the end of the lupine bloom. If you've missed this spot, check out the photo album from today's trip -- which also reminded us to watch our step in the wild. This local resident slithered across the boat launch ramp as we returned to the parking lot. 

          

A pre-bloom day on the North Fork of the American 

How to improve a kayaking trip on a gorgeous spring day? Throw in a football-field-sized bouquet of wildflowers. Northern California paddlers can find some of the best floral displays anywhere in the nation, from poppies to paintbrush and irises to Crimson Columbine.

More water this summer for American River kayaking

San Juan rapids will continue to provide good paddling through June 

6/25 update: Lower American flows still holding at about 2,000cfs this week.  

In the midst of an epic drought, here’s some good news for kayakers. The lower American River, one of the most popular waterways in Northern California, is now running at about 2,000 cubic feet per second - and should continue to do so through June. That translates to decent water for paddlers.

Kayakers find purple paradise on American North Fork

It's a long walk to the waterline, and well worth it -- at least, on the way down

Just can’t get any better, we agreed as we paddled back toward Rattlesnake Bar on the North Fork of the American River. An ideal Easter Sunday kayak trip just above Folsom Lake. Perfect weather. Waves of purple lupine carpeting the hillsides. Sparkling, clear water. Nope, can’t get any better than this.

Waterfalls and wildflowers greet spring kayakers

The falls at Jenkinson Lake -- a popular destination for hikers and paddlers in April 

‘Tis the season for waterfalls and wildflowers. April usually brings a boatload of scenic kayaking to Northern California, and Jenkinson Lake was the destination this year. Some NorCal Yak pals led a recent Sunday paddle to a beautiful waterfall at this well-maintained, multi-use recreation area near Pollock Pines.

Paddlers escape a gooey death at Drakes Estero

Bogged-down blogger rescued by Jorge and Valerio, and not a moment too soon (Tom Gomes photo)

Update: The oyster farm lost its legal battle and was closed, but there will still be access for kayaker day use at the site, says the National Park Service. Check its Web site.

One of my more harrowing kayak trips occurred recently on Drakes Estero near Point Reyes - but not in the water. Not on dry land either, and that was the problem. A fave phrase of mine, “We cheated death again,” became “We cheated gooey death.”

It happened at the end of a beautiful day of paddling on a 14-mile tour of this spectacular
estuary within a national seashore. It’s named for Sir Francis Drake, an English explorer 

Kayaking along the coast with a bird's-eye view

It’s that time of year when Northern Californian kayakers get a bird’s-eye view of, well, birds. In addition to migratory waterfowl traveling in the fast lane of the Pacific Flyway, other wonders are on wing, if you happen to paddle in the right place at the right time.

Three's company in Jenner -- a pair of bald eagles and a vulture (photo courtesy Lisa Quagliaroli) 

Two NorCal Yak pals were exploring the mouth of the Russian River recently when they spotted a pair of bald eagles only a short distance from the visitor’s center in the town of Jenner. A great photo op, and boy, does the picture tell a story.

First off, those eagles graciously shared their stump with a culinary colleague - a vulture. Yes, our national symbol is a scavenger at heart. Not exactly awe-inspiring. Now look closely at the eagle on the right. There’s a strand of fish entrails stuck on its claw. That would be the raptor equivalent of walking out of a restroom with TP on your heel.  How uncool.

A good weekend to clean up waterways we love

A fine selection of beverages from the lower American River (note muck rake, it came in handy) 

(9/16 update)
They say that one man's trash is another man's treasure. Can't say we found any treasure, but any day that helps restore a river's beauty is priceless.  Less than three hours of  kayaking a short stretch of the lower American River on Saturday (9/15) during the annual Great American River Cleanup produced more than five large bags of garbage -- plus an inflatable mattress, discarded life jacket, and chunks of styrofoam.

From rocks to riches, another side of Tahoe paddling

Paddleboarder plays peek-a-boo amind boulders at Sand Harbor

Sand Harbor: Boulders sliced, diced and polished by thousands of years of wind and water...

Meeks Bay, mansions:  These people earned it. Why, some waited years for their inheritances and stock options...

Every California kayaker should try to make it up to Lake Tahoe at least once a year. My fave Tahoe paddle is the incredibly scenic route from D.L. Bliss State Park to Emerald Bay and Fannette Island.  If you’ve been there and done that too many times, there are interesting alternatives.

Let’s begin on the Far Side, with apologies to cartoonist Gary Larson. Californians and Nevadans may not see eye to eye on much, but we share America’s premier alpine lake. And the view from both sides of Tahoe is spectacular, which takes us across the border and south of Incline Village to Sand Harbor.

Berryessa offers free guided kayak tours, and more

Kayakers break for picnic along Pope Creek on a spring afternoon  

LAKE BERRYESSA - Pope Creek came up on the kayak radar only because a paddling pal used to go bass fishing there years ago. He wanted to recall fond memories of the trophies he took home - some nice T-bone steaks.

But that’s a minor detail. This turned out to be a perfect spring kayaking destination - beautiful weather, gorgeous wildflowers, and a tranquil paddle, much like an Easter weekend at Lake Englebright in 2011. Very quiet on this feeder creek at Lake Berryessa, though power boaters and jet skiers are already dusting off their gear.

Skinny lake a real darling for off-season kayaking

"Robbers Roost" overlooks Lake Clementine

It’s not the largest or smallest kayaking lake in Northern California. Might not qualify as the most beautiful, either, though it’s quite scenic. If you have to stick a superlative on Lake Clementine, near Auburn, it might be…the skinniest lake. In places, you could almost line up four or five sea kayaks, bow to stern, and form a bridge across it. 

Kayaking from China Camp -- enjoy it while we can

China Camp village beach provides best launch at low tide

(7/23 update: A nonprofit group takes over China Camp to keep the park open...see news story for details.)  

CHINA CAMP - This has to be one of the most kayaker-friendly spots on the north end of San Francisco Bay. It’s conveniently located, offers cheap parking close to a good launch beach, provides picnic tables and clean restrooms, and features spectacular paddling to several points of interest. Oh, and a minor detail - China Camp State Park could be shut down by mid-summer.

Paddling into history at China Camp State Park

"Grace Quan" sails out of China Camp, where past and future may be on a collision course

(7/23 update: A nonprofit group takes over operation of the park, saving it from closure.)

Rack that kayak for a paddler’s ideal day trip and your drive might end on San Pablo Bay in Marin County. At China Camp State Park, kayakers enjoy fabulous views of the bay, plus hiking, camping, bicycling, fishing, and a fascinating glimpse of California past.

Sad to say, but China Camp and its rich history are on a collision course with a future fixated on the bottom line. Due to state budget cuts, China Camp is on a “hit list” of parks that may shut down permanently this year. Some areas of the park have already closed or operate only on weekends. It seems ludicrous to abandon a place with almost 150 years of history and so much to offer kayakers and other outdoors enthusiasts - especially when it’s so close to urban areas. (This is the first of two NorCal Yak posts on China Camp.)

Kayaking Tomales Bay on a mild winter weekend

NorCal Yak pal Lisa paddling through the mist north of Inverness

INVERNESS - Kayakers can only worry as favorite rivers and lakes shrink during an unseasonably warm, dry winter in Northern California. But on the coast, similar weather has made for spectacular paddling. On a recent Saturday morning, Tomales Bay looked more lake-like than estuary, with flat water under a clear sky. And the North Coast’s famous fog was reduced to a few photogenic wisps as temps climbed into the 60s.

About those rumors on park fee hikes for kayakers

Rumors have been swirling among Sacramento area kayakers about new state park fees and permit requirements for paddling clubs - specifically at Folsom Lake State Recreation Area (SRA), which includes Lake Natoma. In recent weeks, there has been a rapid-fire exchange of email comments and messages among paddlers, all voicing outrage at the prospect of increased fees or other requirements.

Some club leaders even expressed suspicion that park rangers might surf the Web, searching for kayak club events to detect violators and net more park revenues.

Rumors cast a shadow over kayaking clubs that use Lake Natoma, in the Folsom Lake State Recreation Area 

Latest state park score: 3 saved, 67 to go

(UPDATE: Tomales Bay park wins a reprieve. See Christine Sculati's blog.) 

Three down, 67 to go. That’s the latest score in the California State Parks survival game. Earlier this month, the National Parks Service said it would take over three state parks on the 70-park closure list announced by the state to save money.
California sea kayaking ocean paddling park paddlers 

The three parks include Tomales Bay - of significant interest to Northern California kayakers, although Tomales has other federal and local park access points for paddlers.

Tomales Bay: A spectacular channel where you paddle over the San Andreas Fault

All three already had fed connections: Tomales is within both Point Reyes National Seashore and the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Samuel P. Taylor State Park, also in Marin County, is located in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. And Del Norte State Park is in Redwood National Park near Crescent City.

Hey, park paddler, can ya spare a dime?

With 70 state parks losing public funding next year, Gov. Jerry Brown has signed a law that will allow non-profit organizations to become custodians of some of California’s most important environmental treasures. Some of these endangered parks and preserves are favorites of kayakers and other water enthusiasts, and most are in Northern California.

China Camp Heritage Day will need more, bigger contributions

Assembly Bill 42 wasn’t a surprise to Capitol insiders or park advocates.  It’s a classic political maneuver by elected officials to shift responsibility, then tip-toe away before the public realizes just what they've lost. But in truth, there’s plenty of blame to go around - a state economy in the crapper, an electorate long on tea and short on sympathy, and a parks system overused and underfunded for at least the last decade.